Hacker Newsnew | past | comments | ask | show | jobs | submitlogin

To anyone who believes this: I strongly urge you to start tracking all your vehicle expenses. I've been doing this for over 15 years, and when I compare my reality with estimates/calculators online, the latter significantly overestimates the cost of repairs/maintenance.

As a concrete example, the last time I used the official government calculator to compare ICE vs a comparable sized EV (e.g. size of Honda Accord), it gave the breakeven point at 7 years, with the following assumptions:

1. Gas at $7/gal (you pick the price and the chart adjusts accordingly - if I picked a more reasonable price the breakeven point was way far out).

2. It estimated repairs/maintenance for ICE at over $2000/year starting from year 1.

Bullet 2 above is ridiculous. I have all my car related transactions. In over 20 years of owning cars, I never came close to $2000/year. Note that:

1. I buy old cars (typically 8 years old when I buy them) - so they need more repairs than the one that's 1-3 years old.

2. I'm not a car person. I do whatever my mechanic recommends. I follow the maintenance schedule in the manual. I'm not cheaping out on repairs.

Similarly, the Edmunds TCO calculator also spits out some insanely high repair numbers.

When you track the expenses like I do, it becomes hard to believe that the up front extra cost for an EV will ever be compensated by gasoline and repair costs.

EVs are, frankly, really expensive right now.

(I will note that when I buy cars, I do thorough research on "reliability", with the aim of minimizing repairs).



Okay, I'll track all my expenses here for you:

My 2012 leaf has never been in a shop other than a tire shop. I haven't even had to change brake pads.

My 2004 Volvo and 2003 ranger were constantly throwing errors I spent thousands chasing, some of which required replacing the same part twice. Oh and don't forget about oil changes.


How much did you spend on those tires?

Also, if you haven't changed brake pads, I wonder how many miles you've driven it. Was this your primary car?

For me a Leaf wasn't an option. I can't go smaller than a Corolla/Civic, and prefer an Accord sized car - that's what I compared prices with EV.

Still, here are my numbers from 2012 onwards:

Repairs + maintenance = $5173.75 (includes tire changes). Gas = $9480.13 (about 110K miles)

Now the Leaf MSRP in 2012 was $36K. The equivalent sized Yaris was $17K. Currently, the used 2012 Yaris is worth $1600 more than a used 2012 Leaf (assuming 110K miles). When you factor in tax benefits, the extra repairs the Yaris would need, and adjust the cost for fuel, it's not obvious that the Leaf was a better buy. Also, the real maintenance/repair costs would be significantly lower than what I quoted above, because those repairs were due to buying fairly old cars.

(And then factor in how much I actually spent on purchasing cars in that time period because I bought used: $12500 and the Leaf looks even less appealing).

Of course, the Yaris is way better if going out of town.

Anecdata, but everyone I know who bought a Leaf till about 2016 said it was not usable as a primary car - too short a range in cold weather. One person said "I can't commute to work and back, and do errands, without recharging."

As for Volvo/Ranger: Do you not take some responsibility for those purchasing decisions? When I was buying my first car, I was told to stay away from BMW, Mercedes, and Volvo. I was a student and was told I'd never be able to afford even minor repairs. In fact, a friend who was an engineer in Austin at the time bought a used Mercedes, and soon after the AC stopped working. He never got it fixed - he would use it only in the winter while he drove his Corolla the rest of the year.

Regarding the Ranger: I'm looking at reliability scores and they're poor, even for brand new ones.


> Also, if you haven't changed brake pads, I wonder how many miles you've driven it. Was this your primary car?

I don't know about Leafs specifically, but brake pads usually last a long time in EVs due to regenerative braking. You might not use brakes at all if you can avoid doing any hard stops.


Individual experiences will vary. I would say that your strategy is generally optimal, all thought harder to execute right now as the market is bonkers.

Buying 8 year old cars is a lower cost strategy ss your filtering out the lemons. You can’t buy the shitty BMW 3 series as it’s been converted to a Coke can by that time. :) Even then you’re lucky as stuff starts breaking due to age and mileage.

I drove a 2003 Pilot until 2019 and it hit a bunch of repairs at 125k and then at 250k major repairs came up just due to age and frame rust. I still miss that car!


> Even then you’re lucky as stuff starts breaking due to age and mileage.

Things definitely do break, hence the repairs I've done. I don't think I got lucky 3 times in a row - I researched and bought known reliable vehicles, and always paid a mechanic to go over the car before I bought it.

I've posted actual repair numbers since 2012 in this comment:

https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=35359539




Guidelines | FAQ | Lists | API | Security | Legal | Apply to YC | Contact

Search: