I believe that what you’re looking for is called a “spectrum analyzer”. You’ll need a calibrated antenna, too.
I’m guessing that SAR (specific absorption rate) is usually measured with a block of soggy flesh-imitating goo that’s set up as a calorimeter, though. You could look up how the FCC defines SAR, perhaps.
The consensus standard for this sort of test is IEEE 1528, and you are absolutely correct. The test uses a gel phantom (the standard provides a few formulations for different frequencies but most are a mixture of water, salt, sugar, and a thickener) and it is poked at with a sensitive probe to measure local temperature rise.
I’m guessing that SAR (specific absorption rate) is usually measured with a block of soggy flesh-imitating goo that’s set up as a calorimeter, though. You could look up how the FCC defines SAR, perhaps.